Signs, signifiers and graffiti

It is with special thanks to Ferdinand de Saussure’s theory of semiotics, and C.S. Peirce’s theory that a sign is “something that stands for something, to someone in some capacity” that we share these signs of significance encountered during our travels, with you.

Either that or we thought they were just pretty amusing.

You decide …

Hey what? A Bitch Party? Feminists were lining up around the block for this one …

Some graffiti in San Cristobal de las Casas – the leopard/tiger has broken a machine gun in two. And of course, someone drew a penis on it – because that is always hilarious.

What I don’t understand is why they didn’t just use Google translate?

How can we not love this?

Thanks Mexico!

I love that Mexicans think that ham, chicken and tuna are part of a vegetarian meal

I just love Rumi, that’s why …

LA Tuesday

Checked into our accommodation the previous night – a fantastic Bed and Breakfast called The Gardens.

The next day visited:

• The Grove Shopping Centre – shops and watching the filming of “Extra”
• The largest camera store in the USA (which didn’t have the lens cap size we needed)
• The Farmer’s Market
• Nikki went shopping while I went to the Record Collector (see below) and cruised the nearby streets.

The Record Collector – 1 million records – all sorted in the mind of the slightly crazy owner and his equally eccentic sidekick. They ask you what you are looking for as soon as you go in. If you don’t reply, they are likely to kick you out. So be prepared!

Sadly they didn’t have the 80’s LPs I was looking for, and I declined to buy a Rolling Stones LP for $30 – which caused the owner to launch into a 30 minute diatribe about how I was symbolic of everything that was wrong with the recording industry. Well, apparently I was in there for 90 minutes (actually just 10) using up the time of 50% of his staff (he only has one) to help me identify where the records were (there’s no catalogue system so you have to ask them). This was cause enough to launch into a long manifesto about his store – why it was built – how they have never sold anything but vinyl since 1974 and how digital music and cds have destroyed the music industry. Actually that’s true, but it wasn’t really my fault.

Canters Bakery in LA

I won some slight points back by referencing a book on the history of recorded music (Perfecting Sounds Forever – which is brilliant) and agreeing with him that digital music is a bad thing. So if you’re ever in LA and actually want to buy some records (make sure you have a list and aren’t looking for anything post 1982) this is the place for you. Don’t mention CDs, or Amoeba Records (the other amazing CD and record store in Hollywood). It is apparently too “commercial” which I think means they have: a. staff, b. an ability to not abuse their customers, c. A concept of customer service, and d. prices. The Record Collector have no prices, they just make them up when you return your items to the front – and then get offended if you don’t want to buy them.

Overall though, it is an amazing shop – perfect for the music nerd.

After this walked down some interesting LA streets complete with Jewish bakeries, thrift shops, old diners and Canters – an iconic LA Bakery open 24 hours, once the venue for some amazing late night music jams with Jakob Dylan, the Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Johnny Depp and others.

Dinner at one of the hip new restaurants in LA – Son of a Gun. The Lobster Rolls and blackened Cod were amazing!

Quote of the Day – “If you can’t feel it, it’s not music” (Crazy owner of The Record Collector)

Food of the Day – Lobster Roll at Son of a Gun

The Record Collector in LA. This is not a shop for browsing. Be prepared!

LA first impressions

Our introduction to LA was a 2-hour mini van trip through the car-jammed 5-lane highway. And it was 2pm on a Wednesday. But despite the horrors of the road, and the heat, our driver was jolly and genial throughout, chatting away all the while lumbering in and out of the van to let people out.

I was ready not to like LA and the people. But they were so friendly and larger than life that they won me over quickly. From street beggar to street hustler everyone seemed full of life and confidence, which translated to pretty considerate treatment of others overall. No cultural cringe here or insecure thoughts of not being worthy, they were the best and that was that. The LA folk we came across were loud and brash, and everyone seemed to be in constant training for their 15 minutes.

We stayed at the Hotel Hollywood – Marilyn Monroe and James Dean also stayed here many moons ago

Went shopping despite not sleeping – walked up Hollywood Boulevard’s walk of fame – street really tacky full of pizza shops, Mexican eateries, sports bars, lingerie shops, tattoo parlours and army supply stores – catering to hookers, stoners, tourists and those with an ammo fetish. An interesting combo of tack and faded glamour – there were lots of old beautiful art deco buildings.

Thankfully we came across an army supply store that sold pepper spray – I was running a bit low…

Ate at a Gumbo restaurant – New Orleans style. Had catfish, soft shell crab salad and sweet potato chips. Felt a bit more energised after that. Bought some flats at Aldo for $50 and then some converse for $40 – we were both exhausted but it was around 6pm at this stage so we decided to find a bar for a drink before heading home.

My first meal in LA New Orleans style – cornbread (the muffin looking thing), softshell crab, catfish and sweet potato chips… mmm fried goodness!

Walked off the main drag onto a side street and found some nicer bars – ended up at a place called Bar Felix. Had 2 cocktails, Andrew had 1 and we shared a desert and it only cost $30 including tips. By this stage it was 8.15ish. We paid and headed back to the hotel but I went to buy some water and melatonin – thankfully we have a 24-hour pharmacy/ liquor shop/ supermarket called CVS across the road and it’s AWESOME. I bought some melatonin which was a bit exciting as we can’t buy it over the counter in Australia, then bed – it was day 1 after all.

Santa Barbara – much better than the TV show

After a couple of days in LA to see Hollywood, we headed by via train to Santa Barbara. It’s a beautiful trip that follows right alongside the coast for much of the journey.

I really didn’t know what to expect in Santa Barbara – my only previous experience being the TV soap which I watched for 5 years during high school. It’s a beautiful seaside town – quite small – which great weather, very little rain and importantly plenty of nearby wineries.

Lobster for dinner on Friday night at a local seaside eatery (amazing!) and then on Saturday, our friends Brian and Sarah (who were amazing hosts!) too us wine tasting in the Santa Ynez Valley (ie. where Sideways” was filmed). Beautiful weather and the wines were fantstic – we visited Gainey, Rusack and Sunstone.

On SUnday we were back in Santa Barbara for Brian’s birthday BBQ – at his parents amazing house overlooking the coast. The perfect way to spend a Sunday really!

Food of the Day- Cookie dough flavoured vodka
Quote of the day: (woman talking about what she can do if she lived in Mexico) “You can do volunteer work and that kind of thing – but I’m a CAPITALIST – and I need to make money!!”

On Monday, I relived a memory from 1982 (when I last went) and visited Universal Studios! It’s been upgraded a fair bit since my last visit, and was fantastic. Highlights included the new Transformers ride (best I’ve been on), The Simpsons ride, The Mummy ride, Jurassic Park ride, of course the Studio Tour, and the live Waterworld show was the best of those I’ve seen too.

We then checked into our lovel bed and breakfast (The Garden – recommended!) and spend a few more days exploring LA.

Food of the Day – Mac and Cheese, Spinach Breakfast Burrito

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The LA hustle

The thing about arriving fresh off the plane, looking decidedly un-LA in black skinny jeans and brown boots, is that you stand out like a sore thumb. Andrew and I were wandering down the fabulously trashy Hollywood Boulevard, map in hand, looking somewhat dazed and confused in the presence of sunshine, when suddenly these friendly African-American guys looking like extras from the Fresh Prince of Bel Air (yes, straight from the 90s – think afro comb stuck in hair and boxy over-sized brightly coloured shirts over long shorts) come up and say hello, shake our hands, ask us where we’re from. They seem thrilled when we say we’re from Australia. How exciting we think, they’re interested in us!

Fresh Prince and friend

Our excitement soon fades when they shove their CDs in our hands and tell us to tell everyone at home about their music and ask us for a donation. We end up giving them $20 which is more than you pay for a good CD of music you’ve actually heard and like. They kept telling us they sounded nothing like L’il Wayne, which was meant to soothe us in some manner I expect, although I’m not entirely sure why.

And as quickly as they appeared into our lives they vanished – leaving us with 2 unwanted CDs and $20 poorer. We felt a bit stupid. But it had to happen. Everyone is out to make a buck in this town. Well everywhere really, and they did seem sincere enough – you could tell they really thought they could make it by handing out their CDs to strange folk on the street. That’s the American dream right there.

Another one on the make in LA

Another time I got swindled was by a lovely chick manning a hair styling stand in the Grove shopping center. She was very good – very good indeed. She sucked me in with all the usual salesman’s bullshit – stuff I thought I was immune to. But the fact of the matter was that the straightener really worked well and my hair did look amazing. So I bought it for $175 and she gave me a whole load of free hair products (which should have rang alarm bells) and she told me the company gave a lifetime warranty (which is a complete lie as the warranty only says one year). I checked the net and there are loads of posts complaining about the product…ah well, the straightener still works though so I guess I haven’t been completely swindled…yet.

I think we just hope for the best when we’re in a strange place. We hope that smiles from people mean real smiles, not just smiles to get you to buy something. And I guess that’s why I’ll keep being ripped off and why I’ll be pleasantly surprised when I’m not!

Hollywood

Day 2. Hollywood. Breakfast Bagel. Hollywood tour of the sites, including the houses of Julia Roberts, Michael Jackson (where we died), Laurence Fishburne, Jason Statham, Guy Ritchie, Tom Cruise etc. Iconic music venes- the Whisky A Go-Go, The Roxy, the House of Blues, the Devo House, the house where the Doors recorded LA woman. Burritos and Sushi! 24 hour pharmacy/liquor store for dessert.

An amazing photo of Tom Cruise’s house. Well, his gate.

Day 3: Took the metro to Union Station – an amazing art-deco building used in many films. Checked into our train to Santa Barbara and took off for a brief 2 hour walk down-town. Very quiet – hardly any people. Went past some nice old buildings, including the Police Building d City Hall – both massive and intimidating, which seems odd for a country that is into small government.

Lunch at a great Japanese place and then back to Union station for the 3pm train. Which is delayed and leaves at 5.40pm. When we get on it thought the train is fantastic – heaps of legroom – free wireless and a good cafe. The Pacific Sunliner travels all up the Californian Coast from San Diego and has some amazing views right alongside the beach. We arrive in Santa Barbara – meet my friend Brian and head for an amazing meal of lobster (only $30!) on the beach!

Quote of the Day:
Policewoman to boy skating down a railing near Union Station
“You can’t skate here”
“Sorry, I was just trying to shred the rail. My bad.”

First Day in LA

Hotel Hollywood! Great location near Hollywood Boulevard. After the 2 and a half hour drive in the airport shuttle to get here, it was a great relief.

Hadn’t slept so spent the afternoon wandering the boulevard, which is pretty tacky – apart from the stars in the sidewalk it’s very run-down – most shops are boarded up and most of the old amazing art deco buildings empty. The few shops that remains seem to all fall in one of 3 categories – tattoos, lingerie or dodgy electronics.

Amazing weather – head to a lovely bar off the main strip for drinks and food.

Hotel Hollywood – $110/night
Good: Location, rooms small but nice, air-con, great shower, good free continental breakfast (bagels and coffee), great staff.
Bad: Nothing really!

Food of the day: This amazing rocky road, brulee thing. America does desserts reallly well
Quote of the day: (two dudes in car driving past a guy crossing the road with his white girlfriend).

Dudes in car: “Man we are going to a party if you wanna hang out with some real niggers”
Dude with girl: “I’ll come to your party man, but I aint no nigger”